1.) The most important thing  that you want to get is a book on bearded dragons. Any book on the market is fine. This will give you the basics for bearded dragon care.
2.) All of the things mentioned here are only our opinion. We are not veterinarians. We are breeders. If you ever have any concerns about what is  going on with your bearded dragon, please call a vet that is experienced with reptiles.
3.) You must remember that what works for one dragon, doesn't work for all dragons.
4.) They are so different. They all love attention. They do not need another dragon if you are giving them attention.
5.) PLEASE DO NOT buy a bearded dragon under six inches. They are not strong enough to make all of the adjustments of change and more often than not, they don't survive.  Look for one that is preferably around 8-10 inches when purchasing.

Food: Bearded dragons eat gut loaded crickets, greens, vegetables, and bearded dragon pellets (we love to use rep cal bearded dragon pellets)... Don't feed any cricket larger than the space between the dragon's eyes. During the first year, bearded dragons consume a lot of crickets , and then after a year old , and the majority of growing is done and they slow down the eating. Juveniles will consume sometimes up to sixty plus crickets a day.    Where as adults will eat ten crickets a week. (gut load crickets by feeding the crickets a good gut load food or bearded dragon food, at least one hour before feeding them to your dragon.)
One feeding a day, coat the crickets with calcium such as Miner-all  and once a week dust your crickets with vitamins such as Herptivite. These are just a few things to feed your dragon.  
You can feed beardies dandelions, collard greens, mustard greens, kale, and or turnip greens.  Make sure that you are picking greens and flowers that are not sprayed by chemicals or pesticides.  Frozen mixed vegetables that are thawed are great in the winter. (canned vegetables have too many additives and sugars) Squash is also a favorite.  Bearded dragons love editable flowers such as nasturtiums, pansies, and hibiscus.  Fruits that are not citrus are also relished such as blueberries and raspberries.

 
Substrate: There are a lot of heated debates on this subject.   Even still, most will agree on this, don't use calci-Sand (that crystallized sand that comes in pretty colors) or crushed walnut shells. We use washed and screened play sand.  Some like to use newspaper or paper towels.

Lighting: Use a good uvb/uva bulb. We like to use Reptisun 5.0 . For the heat , we use a regular house light bulb over a rock. NEVER use an electric heat rock. These short out and will burn the bellies and / or kill your dragon by electrocution.  Bearded dragons benefit from direct sunlight, not filtered through glass. Leave lights on for 14 hours a day. There is no need for nightlights if your house stays above 60 degrees at night.

Temperature: The temperature on the hot side of the tank should be 90-110 degrees and the temperature on the cool side of the tank should be 80-85 degrees. Never guess on the temps. Get a good thermometer and place it in different places around the tank to find out what the true temp. is.  Those ones that stick on the side of the tank are only giving you the temp. on the side of the tank, not how hot it is in the basking site.  

Water: Dragons do not normally drink water from a water dish. Just add some water to the bottom of the food plate and once a week, put your dragons in tepid water up to their shoulders for about twenty minutes. Do not leave them unattended.

* Remember that your body temperature is 98.6 degrees. Holding your dragon in a cupped hand is like a basking temp. to them. They will gape or poop in your hand. Try to leave your hand more open while still having a firm grasp on the beardie.
* Do not house two males in the same enclosure, as fighting will occur sooner or later.
* Dragons will buldge their eyes. It is scary to see for the first time and is normal.
* Gaping (sitting under the heat with the mouth open) is fine.
* Never sun your dragon in a glass tank.
* Take the food out of the lair one to two hours before lights out. That way they have time to digest their food.
* Always offer greens, even if not eaten.